Onam is an annual festival, generally occurring in September, that is celebrated across Kerala (to the southwest of us) and everywhere the Malayali people of Kerala live. Happily, that includes right here in Bengaluru, so we got to experience this multi-day festival in a few different ways. It’s notable that we were each told the Onam story a few times by different people with some significant variations so we’re not totally sure of the official version, but we’ll offer a little composite story here to get you in the spirit of the holiday.
Around 8000 BC, there was a wonderful king of Kerala named Mahabali (sometimes referred to as a demon king). Under his rule, everyone was happy, all their needs were met, and life was universally good. Because of this general contentment, people no longer felt a need for the gods (or alternatively, he conquered the gods to establish his rule). The gods were not happy with this and appealed to Vishnu to do something about it. Vishnu took the form of a small dwarf and went before the king during a festival when Mahabali had promised to give people whatever they requested. When Vishnu came forward, the king offered him riches and boons, but he said all he wanted was three paces of land. Mahabali, of course, agreed to such a small request. Vishnu then grew to immense size. With one pace, he claimed the earth and with a second pace, he claimed the heavens; he then turned to Mahabali and asked where he could take his third pace. Mahabali bowed his head for Vishnu to step upon. Because of his goodness and piety, Vishnu granted him one wish. He asked that he be allowed to return and walk among his people again once a year. During the ten days of Onam, it is believed that he is in disguise among us, so it is essential that everyone be kind to strangers just in case they are actually in the presence of Mahabali.
September 4 was the midpoint of Onam and a particularly auspicious day for celebration, so we each had the opportunity to celebrate separately last Monday. On Sunday, there was a celebration in our apartment complex that we participated in with some of our new friends. For all Onam celebrations, we were to be dressed in white or off-white so we got to do a little shopping in advance.
Melissa’s Monday: I was invited to an Onam lunch at the Paul Bangalore Hotel, a
small 5-star hotel built around a central covered courtyard where they have a restaurant with a lovely outdoor feel. It was fully decorated for Onam with flowers, hanging palm leaf decorations, and tables all preset with big banana leaves. I attended with a group of 5 women from the Overseas Women’s Club of Bangalore and the husband of the woman who organized us. As always, it was an interesting group of women. One from Malaysia who lived for years in the UAE before permanently relocated to Bangalore, one from South Africa with family ties in Tamil Nadu, one originally from Kerala who has lived in Minnesota for the last 30 years, and one who relocated from Texas just two weeks earlier. The lunch was an incredible experience with a man dressed as Mahabali wandering around the tables, constant live singing and drumming, women dancing, and a whole team of young men walking between the tables with metal buckets of food to serve. There was an unlimited supply of everything, but I couldn’t make it past my first round.
Melissa’s Monday: I was invited to an Onam lunch at the Paul Bangalore Hotel, a
- Dressed up for Onam
small 5-star hotel built around a central covered courtyard where they have a restaurant with a lovely outdoor feel. It was fully decorated for Onam with flowers, hanging palm leaf decorations, and tables all preset with big banana leaves. I attended with a group of 5 women from the Overseas Women’s Club of Bangalore and the husband of the woman who organized us. As always, it was an interesting group of women. One from Malaysia who lived for years in the UAE before permanently relocating to Bangalore, one from South Africa with family ties in Tamil Nadu, one originally from Kerala who has lived in Minnesota for the last 30 years, and one who relocated from Texas just two weeks earlier. The lunch was an incredible experience with a man dressed as Mahabali wandering around the tables, constant live singing and drumming, women dancing, and a whole team of young men walking between the tables with metal buckets of food to serve. There was an unlimited supply of everything, but I couldn’t make it past my first round.
Tom’s Monday: Mine was far less lavish. We have a number of Keralans at CIS, so most of the staff dress up in the white and off white of Onam. It also means that the men wear a mundu, a traditional wrap with the gold trim of Onam. It was the only school day so far I have ridden the bus, so I got there super early to make sure I didn’t miss it. For a good long time, I was the only person, a big white person at that, dressed in such finery on our busy street. Those who know me will not be surprised to find out I was super self-conscious. Some of the Kerlan staff members brought some Kerala snacks — delicious fried banana chips and payasam (Kerala’s word for kheer). That was it for me.
Sunday at the clubhouse: Because we still can’t quite get the hang of India time, we left our apartment at 9:05, fearing we might be late for the 9am event. In reality, it started closer to 10:30.
- Colleen’s yoga teacher wanted a selfie
No worries – we had a lovely time in the meantime, admiring the beautiful flower mandala, chatting with people, and wandering around the complex. Everyone was beautifully attired with most of the women in white and gold saris with lots of gold jewelry. Even children were decked out for the day and many had important parts to play. The event
- Look! It’s Mahabali!
started with the arrival of Mahabali and a young boy whose role we never quite determined. They were greeted with much joy and enthusiastic drumming. Then began the slow procession through the complex led by the drummers who were immediately followed by 16 little girls carrying plates filled with flower petals and candles (no one caught on fire, thanks to the woman watching them like a hawk from the sidelines), followed by Mahabali and all of the members of the community.
At times it had the feeling of a community block party, particularly when we got to ritual dances and songs which felt a little like a spirited community talent show.
After that, we all began lining up for lunch. Happily, we were advised to hurry for the first seating or we might have waited quite a while and we were hungry. The meal was served in the traditional manner on banana leaves without silverware and everyone was very pleased to see us enjoying it.
We will look forward to our next Onam!
Wellserton Wanderings 
I love reading about all your exotic adventures. And India seems to have a plethora of celebrations–what fun! Great stories. Thank you for keeping us in the loop. Love you both!
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So many flower petals… where do they grow all of these beautiful flowers? Enjoy your posts.
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